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Volume 30 Issue 5
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Article Navigation >  Advances in Water Science  > 2019  >  30(5): 760-768

WANG Yan, ZHANG Zhengwei, ZOU Zhili, LIU Zhongbo. Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(5): 760-768. doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
Citation: WANG Yan, ZHANG Zhengwei, ZOU Zhili, LIU Zhongbo. Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(5): 760-768. doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
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Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel

doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
  • 1.

    College of Transportation Engineering Dalian Martime University Dalian 116026 China;

  • 2.

    Logistics Research Institute Dalian Maritime University Dalian 116026 China;

  • 3.

    School of Civil Engineering&Architecture Xiamen University of Technology Xiamen 361024 China;

  • 4.

    State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China

Funds:  The study is financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.51779022) and the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (No.3132019024).
  • Received Date: 2019-01-24
  • Publish Date: 2019-10-25
  • The study of rip currents by intersecting waves is helpful to the comprehensive study of disaster mechanisms and risk assessment. To better understand the characteristics of rip currents controlled by hydrodynamic forcing and longshore topographical variability,an experimental study on rip currents by intersecting waves over barred beaches with rip channels is conducted. The investigation focuses on the distribution characteristics of rip currents resulting from intersecting waves and longshore topographical variability. Analytical results of velocity distribution measurements by acoustic Doppler velocimeters are presented for the distribution characteristics of rip currents on barred beaches with rip channel. The location and width of rip currents are controlled by rip channel and wave nodes,and the length of the rip currents depends on the wave height and coastal slope. The driving force of rip currents without rip channel is primarily determined by the alongshore pressure gradient of the wave setup caused by intersecting waves. By contrast,the driving force of rip currents with rip channel is determined by both the alongshore pressure gradient of the wave set-up and the radial stress gradient,and the relative magnitude of the two values depends on the wave period.
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  • 1. 

    沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

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Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel

doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
  • 1. College of Transportation Engineering Dalian Martime University Dalian 116026 China;
  • 2. Logistics Research Institute Dalian Maritime University Dalian 116026 China;
  • 3. School of Civil Engineering&Architecture Xiamen University of Technology Xiamen 361024 China;
  • 4. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China
Funds:  The study is financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.51779022) and the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (No.3132019024).
  • Received Date: 2019-01-24
  • Publish Date: 2019-10-25

Abstract: The study of rip currents by intersecting waves is helpful to the comprehensive study of disaster mechanisms and risk assessment. To better understand the characteristics of rip currents controlled by hydrodynamic forcing and longshore topographical variability,an experimental study on rip currents by intersecting waves over barred beaches with rip channels is conducted. The investigation focuses on the distribution characteristics of rip currents resulting from intersecting waves and longshore topographical variability. Analytical results of velocity distribution measurements by acoustic Doppler velocimeters are presented for the distribution characteristics of rip currents on barred beaches with rip channel. The location and width of rip currents are controlled by rip channel and wave nodes,and the length of the rip currents depends on the wave height and coastal slope. The driving force of rip currents without rip channel is primarily determined by the alongshore pressure gradient of the wave setup caused by intersecting waves. By contrast,the driving force of rip currents with rip channel is determined by both the alongshore pressure gradient of the wave set-up and the radial stress gradient,and the relative magnitude of the two values depends on the wave period.

WANG Yan, ZHANG Zhengwei, ZOU Zhili, LIU Zhongbo. Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(5): 760-768. doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
Citation: WANG Yan, ZHANG Zhengwei, ZOU Zhili, LIU Zhongbo. Rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach with rip channel[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(5): 760-768. doi: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.05.016
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