Experimental study of rip currents by intersecting wave on barred beach

To better understanding the characteristics of rip current by intersecting wave, the experimental study of rip currents by intersecting wave on the barred beaches was conducted. The intersecting wave trains in the experiment were created by reflecting of obliquely incident waves on a vertical wall which stands perpendicular to the coastal line. The two intersecting waves are with the same amplitude and frequency, but opposite angle. The results of the distribution of wave heights, set-up of the mean level by wave gauges and velocity measuring by ADVs, are shown for analyzing the characteristics of rip currents on barred beaches. The influence of nodes and antinodes on the location and spacing of rip current is investigated. The effect of wave period to rip current is analyzed by the velocity distribution of rip currents of different periods on the top of sandbar.