海啸波作用下泥沙运动——Ⅰ.岸滩剖面变化分析

Study of sediment transport by tsunami waves: Ⅰ: Beach profile evolution

  • 摘要: 在波浪水槽实验的基础上,对海啸波作用下的岸滩剖面演变规律开展研究。实验采用1/10~1/20的组合坡度,考虑3种不同的水深,选取N波作为入射波,同时采用规则波和非规则波进行对比研究。实验对波高、波浪的上爬、回落和水跃过程、每个波作用后的地形进行了测量和记录。研究结果表明,水动力特性的不同造成了N波与规则波和不规则波作用下不同的岸滩剖面演变特点。N波作用下发生了明显的岸滩冲刷和淤积,水流回落时滩肩发生冲刷,高速薄层回流和出渗水流作用是滩肩冲刷的主要原因,离岸区水跃发生水流挟沙力降低,泥沙淤积呈沙坝剖面。

     

    Abstract: Tsunami has become one of the most serious marine disasters. The devastating tsunami waves can mobilize substantial amount of coastal sediment and change the coastal morphology considerably. 2D laboratory experiments were performed to investigate the changes of cross-shore beach profile under the wave action. The initial 1/10-1/20 composite beach slope was respectively exposed to the N-waves, regular waves and irregular waves in three water depths. The free surface elevations, processes of wave uprush, back wash and run-down jump, the change of cross-shore beach profile were measured and recorded. The study showed that the beach profile evolution was different under the action of N-waves, regular waves and irregular wave because of the different hydrodynamic characteristics. Erosion took place in the beach berm by sheet flow when the wave washed back. The seepage force contributed to incipient sediment motion. The deposition took place in the deeper region as the carrying capacity of sediment decreased in the offshore region where the run-down jumps happened. The beach profile was bar type.

     

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