李绍武, 胡传越, 柳叶. 不规则波在岸礁地形增水变化规律试验[J]. 水科学进展, 2019, 30(4): 581-588. DOI: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.04.013
引用本文: 李绍武, 胡传越, 柳叶. 不规则波在岸礁地形增水变化规律试验[J]. 水科学进展, 2019, 30(4): 581-588. DOI: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.04.013
LI Shaowu, HU Chuanyue, LIU Ye. Experimental investigation on set-up of irregular waves over fringing reef flat[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(4): 581-588. DOI: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.04.013
Citation: LI Shaowu, HU Chuanyue, LIU Ye. Experimental investigation on set-up of irregular waves over fringing reef flat[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2019, 30(4): 581-588. DOI: 10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2019.04.013

不规则波在岸礁地形增水变化规律试验

Experimental investigation on set-up of irregular waves over fringing reef flat

  • 摘要: 波浪增水抬升了岸礁礁坪的平均水位,对岸礁后方陆域安全有重要影响。通过水槽试验,研究了不规则波况下岸礁礁坪的增水。试验组次为3种礁坪水深、4种有效波高和4种谱峰周期的组合。试验结果表明:①岸礁地形上的波浪要素需至少统计200个波才能达到稳定;②不规则波列在岸礁上破碎过程比规则波列复杂,同一波列中波高较大的波以卷破形式在礁前斜坡上破碎,波高较小的波以崩破形式在礁坪上破碎或者不破碎;③礁坪上最大增水值随入射波周期的增大而增大、随礁坪水深的增大而减小,并与入射波波高呈正比。结合试验数据,发现基于规则波试验得出的Gourlay礁坪增水公式,在使用有效波高和谱峰周期作为代表波要素时,公式能良好地预测不规则波在岸礁礁坪上的最大增水值。

     

    Abstract: Wave-induced set-up brings severe impacts on the safety of the land area behind the reef through increase of the mean water level on the fringing reef flat. Flume experiments were carried out under irregular wave conditions to study the wave-induced set-up on reef flat. The experimental tests were carried out with 3 reef flat depths,4 significant wave heights and 4 spectral peak periods. It was found that:① Stable hydrodynamic conditions on reef flat can be achieved only when the sampling time lasts for more than 200 peak periods;② Irregular wave trains have more complex breaking process than that of regular wave trains,in that the larger waves in the same wave train break on the fore-reef slope in plunging manner,while smaller waves break on the reef flat in spilling manner or do not break;③ The maximum set-up on reef flat was found to increase with the increase of the peak period,and decrease with the increase of the water depth on the reef flat,and be proportional to the significant wave heights. The formula,proposed by Gourlay for estimating set-up on reef flat under regular wave conditions,was extended to irregular wave conditions. It was found that the maximum set-up can be well predicted by replacing the regular wave height and period in the formula with the significant wave heights and peak periods for irregular waves,respectively.

     

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